Montisi - A Night to Remember

One of the aspects of traveling that we most cherish are the opportunities to glean at least a glimpse local life from an emic or insider perspective. We were fortunate to be provided that opportunity on this trip when we were invited to a contrada dinner (cena) in Montisi.

The hosting contrada, Castello, is one of four contrade in Montisi, a hilltop hamlet of fewer than 400 residents. The translations "neighborhoods" or "disticts" don't adequately reflect the concept as each contrada is responsible for its partizanos (residents), assuming responsibility for each other in every regard.

In medieval times, the contrade were organized by trades. For example, all the fornos (bakeries) were in one neighborhood, the blacksmith shops in another and the tailors in yet another. Each was expected to raise funds and an army to protect the larger commune. This is no longer the case, although contrade are still identified by neighborhood. Much like one's alma mater, each contrada has its colors, logo, motto (if not fight song), and there is much pride involved!

Impressions from the Castillo Contrada Cena - Saturday, 26 August 2017
After meandering down the cobbled streets of Montisi, we arrived at 8PM to find tables set up down the center of the narrow stone roadway in the heart of the Castello Contrada.

Yellow and white table clothes accented with bright blue water bottles (naturale e frizante) adorned each table, representing the three colors of the Castillo Contrada.

Electric lights illuminated stone walls that were constructed in the 12th century to reflect torchlight.




At least eighty people (as wel as a passel of well mannered dogs) mingled, drinking white wine from plastic cups. Mellifluous rhythms of the Italian language harmonized with varieties of English (US, UK, Australian, and Italian-English). The resulting linguistic symphony was underscored by the bass beat of music projected from strategically placed speakers, punctuated by much laughter and broad gestures.

Every member of the Castello Contrada somehow contributed to this event. 

Most notable was the Squadra di Cucina (kitchen team). 

 

We began with perfectly prepared tempura vegetables: broccoli, artichoke hearts and zucchini that were skewered and served in paper cones. They were truly delectable, and we were tempted to ask for seconds; however, we had been forewarned that there was molto food yet to come.

 
Two different pasta dishes followed, with plenty of time in between for conversation. At this point, glass pitchers of vino da tavola rosso (red table wine) were brought out.

The pasta dishes were followed by the purpose of the cena, which was to recognize and appreciate the participants in this year's jousting competition (see previous post - Montisi). 

Next came the Oxtail Stew... served with potatoes and Roman style bread which uses salt.






Note: Tuscan bread is rather bland, as salt is not used. The explanations vary as to why this is the case. The most popular explanation is that salt was very expensive, especially as it was taxed. Nonetheless, this bread was divine!

Not done yet! Four courses yet to go...

...starting with a lovely saltimbocca and sage, held together with stuzzicadenti - toothpicks (my favorite word in Italian!)



Then came the amazing mushrooms...

After all was cleared away, fresh cut peaches were served in little cups with stuzzicadenti (I just had to use that word again!), and we thought we were done. However, we were premature in that assumption..

The grand finale consisted of warm chocolate filled sugar sprinkled donuts that were the quintessential definition of decadently delicious!

Marco - Captain of the Castello Contrada

 

Needless to say, we left with full bellies, and also with full hearts! This is the soul of Tuscany, especially this very special place called Montisi.

Ann Lippincott
Santa Barbara, California

Montisi

Saturday 26 August ~ Montisi 

While our friends Walter and Suzanne are the reason for us to visit Montisi, we have come to appreciate our new friend Ann Alexander and the local knowledge and insights (as well as fluency in the Italian language) that she has generously shared.

Ann Alexander and Bella 

To learn more about Montisi, see the website that Ann Alexander created
http://montisi-montalcino.com/

Suzanne and Walt

Montisi is divided into 4 districts or contrade (Castello, Piazza, San Martino, and Torre). Suzanne and Walter live in the Piazza contrada (the "best" contrada, or so we are told). 

Each year the four contrade of Montisi participate in a competition (see previous post describing the Palio in Siena). This competition, the Giostra di Simone (Jousting Match of Simone), harkens back to a 13th century character named Simone Cacciaconti who was, at one time, lord of the county. For some reason he was chased away, finding refuge in Siena. The story continues, and how a jousting competition plays into the plot is not entirely clear. However, the annual Giostra di Simone is preceded by a colorful procession for which the 70 or so parading residents don medieval costumes.

Note: The 2017 winner of the Giostra di Simone was the ... Piazza Contrada. (It was their 20th win.)

Torrita di Siena and Montefollonico

Friday 25 August

Heather is quite the researcher and trip planner! She provided each couple with a packet containing maps and information about hilltop villages that are not far from where we are staying. Today, prior to our truffle hunt, we visited two that are blessedly off the tourist trail.

Due to villa availability, the group will relocate to Torrita di Sienna after Ned and I depart.






The hamlet of San Torrito di Siena dates back to Etruscan and Roman times.









We entered via one of the four portos, hung with flags of one of the contrade.

At the very center of town is the Palazzo Pretorio, enclosed by the Town Hall, the theater and the Chiesa delle Sante Flora e Lucilla (1300).

Like most hamlets in Italy, everything (EVERYTHING) closes down between 12-3PM. However, we lucked out! The church was open because of the impending arrival of the electrician... How fortunate for us! 

Santa Lucilla

Santa Caterina da Siena

Note: the eight contrade flags are hanging in the church... 

We next motored on to Montefollonico, nearby Torrita di Siena. The name means: Place of the clothworkers, perhaps referencing the Benedictine Monks that settled here in Roman times and who worked and dyed the wool.

view from the ramparts next to the church

Tartufi and other Tastes from Tuscany

Friday 25 August 
Yes, the food here is truly divine. As I tend to at least sample whatever the locals are eating, I have earned the reputation of being a rather adventuresome diner. Here are some samplings from the Tuscan pantry.

One Tuscan delicacy is porchetta, available in markets as well as in grocery stores.
(See also Market Day in Sinalunga post.)

Another is tartufi or truffles. Tuscany is one of the most important regions in Italy for truffle hunting. Here in Tuscany, one can enjoy the culinary treasure year round. However, there is the particular season (15 September - 15 December) for hunting the priceless white truffle, tartufo bianco. (One prized truffle reportedly fetched as much as $330,000!) 

There also are several seasonal types of black truffles. We set off with Nico and his dog Gas in search of summer black truffles (Tuber Aestivum). Black Summer Truffles have a strong earthy flavor and aroma. Dogs such as Gas, not pigs, are used to hunt Tuscan tartufi. 

Nico must pass an exam to earn a license to hunt truffles. He pays an annual fee for both the license and right to hunt truffles in the Montisi preserve (hence, our 25 euro pp fee)

Black truffles are most unattractive, resembling black warty potatoes. They are often buried under a foot of dirt, masking their distinct and pungent aroma. 

Gas worked hard, and we ended up with a nice harvest! 

Later that evening, Nico and his wife Veronica came to the villa to serve us a homemade Tuscan meal that will forever be remembered - a real bargain at 40 euros per person!  

The meal began with a year-long aged prosciutto crudo, made from boar that Nico and his buddy killed last year.

This was accompanied by homemade cheeses: one an aged (hard) pecorino, the other a truffle-infused young (soft) pecorino, both drizzled with homemade balsamic. 

Bread that Nico's mama made that day in her forno was provided. 

The next course was egg with shaved tartufo, which Keith explained is a classic dish. 

Veronica then explained how she made the pici pasta that morning. 

Note: Pici is larger than spaghetti and is wonderfully chewy.

The pici pasta was served topped with a truffle sauce - tartufi cooked in EVOO and a bit of butter, then tossed in the pici, topped off with a bit of Grana Padano Parmigiano. Note: Nico is insistent that it not be served with pecorino, as that would overwhelm the flavor of the truffles.

The main course was  cinghiale - wild boar that Nico shot himself. Nico explained that the cinghiale had been cooked for 5 hours with 5 spices: cloves, juniper berries, cinnamon, thyme and bay leaf as well as small quartered onions and 2 garlic cloves. Red wine was also somehow involved... Once at the villa, Nico heated this in a saucepan.  He explained that this recipe is truly international in that his mother was born in the Black Forest region of Germany, his father hails from Calabrezi, and his wife is Tuscan. It was rich! 

Salad was next, consisting of garden vegetables drizzled with the homemade balsamic. 

The meal ended with a chocolate profiterole (which, like the cinghiale, does not photograph well...). 

    Keith provided wonderful wines that paired quite nicely with the meal. These are the three reds.