Saturday, August 26, 2017

Tartufi and other Tastes from Tuscany

Friday 25 August 
Yes, the food here is truly divine. As I tend to at least sample whatever the locals are eating, I have earned the reputation of being a rather adventuresome diner. Here are some samplings from the Tuscan pantry.

One Tuscan delicacy is porchetta, available in markets as well as in grocery stores.
(See also Market Day in Sinalunga post.)





Another is tartufi or truffles. Tuscany is one of the most important regions in Italy for truffle hunting. Here in Tuscany, one can enjoy the culinary treasure year round. However, there is the particular season (15 September - 15 December) for hunting the priceless white truffle, tartufo bianco. (One prized truffle reportedly fetched as much as $330,000!) 

There also are several seasonal types of black truffles. We set off with Nico and his dog Gas in search of summer black truffles (Tuber Aestivum). Black Summer Truffles have a strong earthy flavor and aroma. Dogs such as Gas, not pigs, are used to hunt Tuscan tartufi. 








Nico must pass an exam to earn a license to hunt truffles. He pays an annual fee for both the license and right to hunt truffles in the Montisi preserve (hence, our 25 euro pp fee)



Black truffles are most unattractive, resembling black warty potatoes. They are often buried under a foot of dirt, masking their distinct and pungent aroma. 



Gas worked hard, and we ended up with a nice harvest! 














Later that evening, Nico and his wife Veronica came to the villa to serve us a homemade Tuscan meal that will forever be remembered - a real bargain at 40 euros per person!  













The meal began with a year-long aged prosciutto crudo, made from boar that Nico and his buddy killed last year.
This was accompanied by homemade cheeses: one an aged (hard) pecorino, the other a truffle-infused young (soft) pecorino, both drizzled with homemade balsamic. 


Bread that Nico's mama made that day in her forno was provided. 


The next course was egg with shaved tartufo, which Keith explained is a classic dish. 

Veronica then explained how she made the pici pasta that morning. 
Note: Pici is larger than spaghetti and is wonderfully chewy.




The pici pasta was served topped with a truffle sauce - tartufi cooked in EVOO and a bit of butter, then tossed in the pici, topped off with a bit of Grana Padano Parmigiano. Note: Nico is insistent that it not be served with pecorino, as that would overwhelm the flavor of the truffles.


The main course was  cinghiale - wild boar that Nico shot himself. Nico explained that the cinghiale had been cooked for 5 hours with 5 spices: cloves, juniper berries, cinnamon, thyme and bay leaf as well as small quartered onions and 2 garlic cloves. Red wine was also somehow involved... Once at the villa, Nico heated this in a saucepan.  He explained that this recipe is truly international in that his mother was born in the Black Forest region of Germany, his father hails from Calabrezi, and his wife is Tuscan. It was rich! 

Salad was next, consisting of garden vegetables drizzled with the homemade balsamic. 


The meal ended with a chocolate profiterole (which, like the cinghiale, does not photograph well...). 

    Keith provided wonderful wines that paired quite nicely with the meal. These are the three reds. 


Turbo Tour of Siena

Thursday 24 August

Once we arrived (and found parking!) Siena, the six of us went separate ways. Ned and I purchased an OPI Si Pass (good for 3 days...) for 13 euros each and proceeded to "turbo tour" this amazing city.

First stop:  Cattedrale (Duomo di Siena) where the marble mosaic floors are truly exquisite! The undertaking went from 14th to 16th centuries, and about 40 different artists contributed to the 56 panels that depict allegories, virtues, the sibyls, and scenes from the Old Testament. (Not sure where Socrates fits...). Our timing was fortunate as the uncovered floor can only be seen for six to ten weeks a year. Otherwise most of these remarkable mosaics are covered over.

 



















Designed and completed between 1215 and 1263, the cattedrale is distinguished by its greenish-black and white striped marble (with some red marble on the façade).









Second stop: The Libreria Piccolomini, that adjoins the cattedrale. Reminiscent of the Rila Monastery outside Sofia, Bulgaria, this was my #1 most favorite because of the calligraphy, which, because they are behind glass do not photograph well.

 




Hopefully, I was at least able to glean the gist...












The frescos in this room are also amazingly stunning!
 


Third stop (on the turbo tour) was the Museo dell'Opera, which houses works of art and architectural fragments that were formerly in, or a part of, the Duomo of Siena.
Donatello's Madonna and Child (ca. 1457)






As we were on a turbo tour, we did not go upstairs to the actual Opera House, nor did we climb the stairs to the Panorama del Facciatone. We also opted to skip the crypts (Ned quote: "We have seen crypts  before, and once you've seen one crypt...").  

We did happen-stance upon a delightful little chapel: Chiesa di San Niccolo in Sasso




 We then popped around to the Battistero (baptismal), also part of the Duomo complex.


Note: We are going to have to visit the chiropractor upon my return home - for all the ceiling gawking we have done the past two weeks!

Final stop on the turbo tour was back to Il Campo,...




where we saw the Palazzo Publico... 

and the Fonte Gaia. Water was scarce in medieval Siena and its availability to the people of the commune changed lives. It took eight years to build the conduit to bring the water here, finally accomplished in 1343.  


Ned and I then met our friends and began the hot walk back to the car...

 
but not before... 



Pienza and Latte de Luna

Sunday 27 August  After a lovely lunch of homemade (by Walter) Gazpacho, we set off on the road to Pienza. There we drooled over the chees...