After morning walks and swims and breakfast ("brekkie" in Aussie lingo), we piled in the car to drive to Siena with Keith behind the wheel.
We had learned from Ann Alexander that there are 17 Contrade di Siena. Formed in the middle ages, contrade are administrative districts or neighborhoods within a city. Their main purpose in medieval times was to provide funds and soldiers for the army that defended Siena from attacks by neighboring states such as Pienza and Firenze. Each contrada would have their own church, baptismal fountain, communal kitchen and administrative offices (uffizi).
Any child born is aligned with the contrada of that child's birthplace. That child assumes alliance with the contrada of birthplace for life. Hence, if a person marries someone from a different contrada and that couple buys a home in yet a different contrada where their child is born, the three members of that one family claims allegiance to three different contrade. The contrada accepts responsibility for its members. Therefore, there is little/no crime, poverty or homelessness.
As tradespeople tended to live together in neighborhoods in medieval times, contrade were designated by trades. In addition to names, colors and banners, unique to the Contrade di Siena, each also has a representative animal.
Banners from the 17 Contrade di Siena
- Aguila (eagle): notaries
- Bruco (caterpillar): silk merchants
- Chiocciola (snail): terracotta makers
- Civetta (little owl): shoemakers
- Drago (dragon): bankers
- Giraffa (giraffe): painters
- Istrice (crested porcupine): military
- Leocorno (unicorn): goldsmiths
- Lupa (wolf): bakers
- Nicchio (scallop shell): potters
- Oca (goose): dye makers
- Onda (wave - animal dolphin): carpenters and guards at the Palazzo Pubblico
- Pantera (panther): grocers and chemists
- Selva (forest - animal: rhinoceros): weavers
- Tartuca (tortoise): scuptors
- Torre (bull): wool combers
- Valdimontone (ram): tailors
Above: Baners from Onda, Selva, Bruco, Leocorno and Nicchio
Since medieval times, competitions among the contrade would be held in such sports as archery, jousting, crossbow shooting, bull fights (banned in 1590) and bareback horse racing.
On 2 July and 16 August of each year, a famous bareback horserace is held in Il Campo di Siena (the main square in the center of the walled city). The stones circumventing the large square are covered by a yellow sand-clay (tufa) surface.
The Leocorno processional
The Palio di Siena
The race consists of a mere 3 laps and is over in 75-90 seconds.
This redefines rivalry and competition, certain contrade are sworn "enemies" of each other. For example, aguila (eagle) and pantera (panther) contrade are sworn enemies. Bruco (caterpillar) is the only contrada with no enemies, whereas the oca (goose) is the only contrada with no allies. Needless to say, there is much money in addition to pride at stake...
Spoiler alert: To see the 16 August 2017 Palio, click on https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bEGsLGwmcJQ#video_1
This explains why we saw so many Onda banners flying from windows throughout Siena.
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| Onda - this year's winners! |
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